Gemstone Guide

Diamonds and gemstones come in a variety of cuts—each with its own personality, sparkle, and story. The cut you choose not only defines the style of the ring but also reflects the individuality of the wearer. Explore the most iconic cuts below.

Round Brilliant Cut

Round Brilliant Cut

The most popular and timeless of all cuts, known for unmatched sparkle and symmetry. Its 58 facets maximize brilliance, making it a classic choice that never goes out of style.

Oval Brilliant Cut

Oval Brilliant Cut

An elegant elongated shape that enhances finger length and radiates fire. Its flattering outline combines brilliance with a touch of individuality.

Cushion Cut

Cushion Cut

Soft, rounded edges meet square proportions. A vintage-inspired cut, cushion diamonds have a romantic glow with both brilliance and charm.

Pear Brilliant Cut

Pear Brilliant Cut

A teardrop silhouette that blends the round and marquise styles. Pear cuts are graceful, unique, and perfect for someone who values elegance with a twist.

Princess Cut

Princess Cut

Square, modern, and full of fire. The princess cut dazzles with sharp geometry and brilliance, offering a contemporary look that remains highly versatile.

Emerald Cut

Emerald Cut

Famous for its clean step-cuts and hall-of-mirrors effect. Emerald cuts emphasize clarity and sophistication, evoking Art Deco glamour.

Asscher Cut

Asscher Cut

A vintage cousin of the emerald cut, but square in shape. Its deep step facets and high crown create a mesmerizing, elegant pyramid effect.

Round Rose Cut

Round Rose Cut

An antique cut with a domed top and flat base, admired for its old-world romance. Less sparkly but deeply charming, it evokes timeless vintage beauty.

Marquise Cut

Marquise Cut

A regal, elongated silhouette with pointed ends. Known for maximizing carat weight, the marquise creates the illusion of a larger stone with graceful sparkle.

The 4 C’s

This relates to the 4 ways any gemstone can be assessed by

Carat Diamond

Carat

Contrary to what most people think, this is not the ‘size’ of the stone, but rather a unit of measurement for the stone’s weight. Depending on how the stone has been cut, two stones of the same carat weight may not always face up looking the same size.

Cut Diamond

Cut

This relates to the way in which a stone has been faceted, not the actual shape of the stone. For example, you can have a pear-shaped rose cut or a pear-shaped brilliant cut — both will be pear in shape, but they will look completely different due to having been faceted in completely different ways.

Diamond Colour

Colour

This is probably the most straightforward. In coloured stones, this will merely be a description of the stone’s colour. In white diamonds however, a universal alphabetic grading system exists to distinguish one diamond from another, by separating them into degrees of whiteness.

D-E-F (colourless)   |   G-H-I (near colourless)   |   J-K-L (very faint)   |   M+ (faint yellow)

Diamond Clarity

Clarity

This relates to how clear a stone is, and the way this is measured is by looking at the stone under magnification to assess how many natural inclusions are present and how visible they are.

FL - IF - VVS1 - VVS2 - VS1 - VS2 - SI1 - SI2 - I1 - I2 - I3 (flawless, internally flawless, very very slight inclusions, very slight inclusions, slight inclusions, included).

INCLUSIONS

All natural stones whether it’s a diamond or coloured gemstone will possess internal and external features called clarity characteristics. Inclusions specifically relate to internal features of any given stone. These are often small markings or particles and crystals that become trapped or form naturally within the stone’s crystal as it grows.

Read more

Coloured Stones

For centuries, coloured gemstones were prized even more than diamonds — chosen for their beauty, symbolism, and individuality.

Diamonds only became the norm for engagement rings in the 1930s after clever advertising campaigns. Today, many are once again embracing coloured stones for their uniqueness and personal meaning.

From sapphires to emeralds, coloured gems offer individuality and character that diamonds often cannot. They bring a distinctive story to every design.

Gemstone Selection

Sapphire

SAPPHIRE

Sapphires are prized for their deep blue hues but also exist in a rainbow of colors. Known as the “stone of wisdom,” sapphires symbolize loyalty and nobility.

With a hardness of 9 on the Mohs scale, sapphires are exceptionally durable and ideal for everyday wear.

Famous sources include Kashmir, Sri Lanka, and Madagascar, each offering unique shades of blue.

Sapphires often contain rutile silk inclusions, which can create a star effect in cabochon cuts.

Fine Kashmir sapphires are among the rarest and most valuable gemstones in the world.

Spinels

SPINELS

Spinels are vibrant gems found in shades of red, pink, purple, and blue. Historically mistaken for rubies, spinels are now celebrated for their brilliance and rarity.

Spinels score 8 on the Mohs scale, offering excellent durability for fine jewelry.

Important deposits are found in Myanmar, Sri Lanka, and Tanzania.

Spinels are often eye-clean, with minimal inclusions that enhance their brilliance.

Vivid red and cobalt-blue spinels are the most sought-after and command premium prices.

Emeralds

EMERALDS

Emeralds captivate with their lush green color, symbolizing renewal and timeless luxury.

Though ranking 7.5–8 on the Mohs scale, emeralds often contain inclusions that make them more delicate.

Colombia produces the world’s finest emeralds, followed by Zambia and Brazil.

Emerald inclusions, called “jardin,” are part of their natural beauty and authenticity.

Vivid green stones with good clarity are highly valuable, especially Colombian origins.

Aquamarines

AQUAMARINES

Aquamarines radiate serene blue tones, symbolizing calmness and clarity. They are a favorite for modern, elegant designs.

With a hardness of 7.5–8, aquamarines are durable and suitable for everyday jewelry.

Brazil is the primary source, with additional deposits in Africa and Pakistan.

Aquamarines are generally eye-clean, enhancing their glass-like transparency.

Deep blue aquamarines are the most valuable, while lighter tones remain elegant and affordable.

Tourmalines

TOURMALINES

Tourmalines are renowned for their incredible variety of colors, from neon greens to vibrant pinks.

With a hardness of 7–7.5, they are fairly durable and versatile for jewelry.

Key sources include Brazil, Afghanistan, and Mozambique.

Some tourmalines show inclusions that enhance their uniqueness, such as cat’s eye effects.

Paraiba tourmalines, with their neon blue-green hues, are among the rarest and most valuable.

Opals

OPALS

Opals are celebrated for their play-of-color, a dazzling spectrum of flashes across the surface.

Opals are softer (5.5–6.5 Mohs) and require gentle care to preserve their beauty.

Australia produces 90% of the world’s opals, with Ethiopia also emerging as a major source.

Opals may contain internal patterns unique to each stone, enhancing their individuality.

Black opals with vivid play-of-color are the rarest and most valuable.

Grey & Champagne

GREY & CHAMPAGNE

Grey and champagne gemstones are subtle alternatives to traditional colors, offering understated luxury.

Durability varies depending on the gemstone variety, but most are suitable for fine jewelry.

Often sourced from diverse global mines, each carries unique shades and tones.

These gems may show natural inclusions that enhance their organic, earthy beauty.

Champagne and grey stones are increasingly sought-after for modern, bespoke designs.

Amethyst

AMETHYST

Amethyst is the violet variety of quartz cherished for its soothing, regal hue—long associated with clarity, calm, and balance.

Mohs hardness 7. Durable for everyday wear with normal care; ideal for rings and pendants.

Major sources include Brazil, Zambia, and Uruguay, each yielding distinct saturations of purple.

Common features include color zoning and “fingerprint” inclusions; fine stones are typically eye-clean.

Deep, evenly saturated purple with flashes of red/blue commands higher value; larger clean gems remain accessible.

Alexandrite

ALEXANDRITE

Alexandrite— the famed color-change chrysoberyl—shifts from green in daylight to red in warm light, a true natural marvel.

Mohs hardness 8.5. Excellent durability suitable for rings and daily pieces.

Historic Russian Ural finds are legendary; modern sources include Sri Lanka and Brazil.

Fine needles, twinning lines, and occasional growth tubes may appear; many stones are eye-clean.

Strong, dramatic color change with good clarity is exceedingly rare and highly prized.

Ruby

RUBY

Ruby, the red variety of corundum, is revered for its fiery “pigeon’s blood” hues—symbolizing passion, vitality, and love.

Mohs hardness 9. Exceptional toughness for lifelong wear, ideal for engagement rings.

Notable sources include Myanmar (Mogok), Mozambique, and Thailand, each producing distinctive reds.

Rutile silk, “fingerprint” patterns, and crystals are common and can enhance visual softness or star effects.

Saturated, vivid red with minimal brown/purple modifiers and good clarity commands premium prices.

Moonstone

MOONSTONE

Moonstone, a feldspar gem, glows with ethereal adularescence—an inner light that dances across the surface.

Mohs hardness 6–6.5. Best for pendants/earrings or protective settings in rings.

Key sources include Sri Lanka, India, and Myanmar; fine blue-sheen pieces are especially coveted.

Characteristic “centipede” inclusions and layering within the feldspar create the glow.

Strong, electric blue sheen on a clear body is the most valuable combination.

Topaz

TOPAZ

Topaz appears in a spectrum from golden to pink and blue; it’s bright, brilliant, and versatile for modern designs.

Mohs hardness 8, with perfect cleavage—durable but should be protected from sharp blows.

Brazil is the leading source; notable finds also come from Pakistan and Nigeria.

Generally clean; may show feathers or growth tubes—often invisible to the naked eye.

Natural Imperial topaz (pink-orange) is rare and highly valued; treated blues are popular and more affordable.

Tanzanite

TANZANITE

Tanzanite, a blue-violet zoisite, is famed for its pleochroism—showing different hues from different angles.

Mohs hardness ~6–7. Best in pendants/earrings or protected ring settings; avoid hard knocks.

Found only in the Merelani Hills of Tanzania—making it a geologically unique treasure.

Fine needles and crystals may appear; many faceted stones are eye-clean with vivid color.

Rich, saturated blue-violet with minimal grey and good clarity is most valuable, especially in larger sizes.